Ajiaco is the soup of Bogotá — the capital city sits at 2,600 meters above sea level in the Eastern Andes, where the climate is cool and overcast most of the year, and ajiaco is a warming, restorative soup that has been eaten in the city for centuries. The dish is specifically identified with Bogotá to the extent that it is called ajiaco bogotano to distinguish it from similarly-named preparations in Cuba and Peru that are entirely different dishes.
The Colombian soup reflects the extraordinary potato biodiversity of the Andes — the region where the potato was first domesticated, with thousands of native varieties. Ajiaco specifically uses three types that behave differently when cooked: one that dissolves to create thickness, two that hold their shape to provide substance. This is not a substitution — the specific cooking behavior of each variety is what creates ajiaco's distinctive texture.
The Three Potatoes
Papa criolla (Solanum phureja):
- Small, round, yellow-fleshed native Colombian potato
- Low starch, dissolves and becomes almost creamy when cooked
- Function in ajiaco: thickens the broth — it practically melts, releasing starch that creates the soup's body
- Substitute: Yellow Yukon Gold potatoes (less effective, won't dissolve as completely)
Papa pastusa:
- White-fleshed, floury Andean potato
- Holds shape during cooking but absorbs broth flavor
- Function: adds body and substance without dissolving
Papa sabanera:
- Red-skinned, waxy potato
- Holds shape very well; provides textural contrast
- Substitute for both pastusa and sabanera: Red-skinned waxy potatoes + regular russet or floury potato
Outside Colombia: Papa criolla is available frozen (labeled papa criolla or yellow potato) at Latin American grocers. The other two varieties can be approximated with local alternatives. Papa criolla's dissolving behavior is what is hardest to replicate.
The Non-Substitutable Herb: Guascas
Guascas (Galinsoga parviflora) is a dried herb from a weed plant native to the Andes. It has a distinctive earthy, slightly citrusy, slightly hay-like flavor that has no close equivalent. In Colombia it is sold dried in small packets.
Without guascas, the soup can be made and will taste good — but it will not taste like ajiaco. The herb is what makes the flavor specifically bogotano rather than a generic chicken-potato soup.
Finding guascas: Latin American grocery stores in cities with Colombian communities; online. It is occasionally sold as gallant soldier herb. If unavailable, some recipes suggest a small amount of dried tarragon + a pinch of dried cilantro as an approximation — it is not the same, but it is the best available substitute.
The Technique: Stagger the Potato Additions
Because the three potato varieties cook at different rates and serve different functions, they are added in stages:
- Papa criolla is added early — it cooks 30–40 minutes and should begin dissolving by the end
- Papa pastusa/sabanera are added later — they cook 20–25 minutes and should be tender but intact
The corn: Ajiaco traditionally includes mazorca (corn on the cob) cut into rounds — Colombian white corn (maíz blanco) is starchy and slightly sweet. The corn is added at the same time as the waxy potatoes.
The Table Finish
Ajiaco is served at the table with its accompaniments on the side — each person customizes their bowl:
- Crema de leche or sour cream — stirred in to add richness and temper the heat
- Capers — a uniquely Colombian addition; a spoonful adds brininess and acid
- Avocado — sliced or diced, added for creaminess
- Ajíes (hot sauce) — optional
The capers in ajiaco are unexpected but traditional to Bogotá — a colonial-era addition that has been part of the recipe for generations.
The Complete Recipe
Serves: 6 | Time: 1.5 hours
Ingredients
Soup:
- 1 whole chicken (1.5kg), cut into pieces or left whole
- 500g papa criolla (or Yukon Gold, cut into small pieces)
- 400g papa pastusa (or russet potato, peeled and quartered)
- 400g papa sabanera (or red waxy potato, cut into chunks)
- 2 corn cobs (mazorca), cut into rounds (3cm thick)
- 3 tablespoons dried guascas
- 2 spring onions (cebolla larga), whole
- 4 sprigs fresh cilantro
- 2 stalks celery
- 2 cloves garlic
- 2 liters chicken broth or water
- Salt
To Serve (at the table):
- Sour cream or crema
- 3 tablespoons capers (drained)
- 1 avocado, sliced
- Extra cilantro, chopped
Method
1. Start the chicken: In a large pot, place chicken, spring onions, cilantro sprigs, celery, garlic, and 2 liters of broth. Bring to a boil; skim foam; reduce to a simmer. Cook 30 minutes.
2. Add papa criolla: Add papa criolla (or Yukon Gold) and guascas; continue simmering. The papa criolla will begin to dissolve.
3. Add remaining potatoes and corn: After 15 minutes, add papa pastusa and papa sabanera pieces and the corn rounds. Simmer 20–25 minutes until all potatoes are tender and the broth has thickened significantly from the dissolved papa criolla.
4. Remove chicken: Take out the chicken pieces; pull the meat from the bones; return shredded chicken to the pot. Discard aromatics (spring onion, celery, cilantro sprigs). Season with salt.
5. Simmer to consistency: The soup should be thick and creamy from the dissolved potato. If too thin, mash a few potato pieces against the side of the pot to thicken further. If too thick, add a little water.
6. Serve: Ladle into bowls, making sure each serving has chicken, potatoes of different textures, and corn. Serve the sour cream, capers, and avocado on the side.
Related reading: Causa Limeña Peruvian Potato Guide | Sancocho Latin American Stew Guide | Feijoada Brazilian Black Bean Stew Guide
The full recipes live in the book.
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