Amatriciana is a dish of singular intensity — the combination of rendered pork fat from guanciale, the acidity of San Marzano tomatoes, the sharp salt of Pecorino Romano, and the heat of black pepper and chili produces something greater than the sum of its parts. It requires no technique beyond good ingredients and patience with the guanciale rendering.
The town of Amatrice, in the mountainous Lazio region, has a protected recipe for Amatriciana filed with the Italian government. It does not include onion, it does not include garlic, and it uses guanciale only. The Roman version that evolved in the city over generations sometimes includes white wine; the Amatrice version does not. Both are correct within their tradition.
The Ingredients
Guanciale (pork cheek/jowl): The fat of guanciale is different from pancetta or bacon fat — it renders more slowly, remains slightly chewier after cooking, and has a distinctly sweet, porky flavor that is richer and more complex than belly fat. Pancetta produces a good amatriciana; guanciale produces the real one. Increasingly available at Italian delis, specialty markets, and online. If unavailable, pancetta is acceptable; bacon (smoked) changes the flavor profile significantly.
San Marzano tomatoes (or whole canned plum tomatoes): A short-cooked sauce — 15–20 minutes — to preserve the brightness of the tomato against the richness of the guanciale fat.
Pecorino Romano: Grated over the top. Parmigiano-Reggiano is a more gentle, buttery cheese; Pecorino Romano's sharpness and salt is correct here.
Bucatini: The traditional pasta choice — thick hollow spaghetti (bucato = with a hole). The hollow center traps the sauce; the thickness stands up to the robust guanciale-tomato preparation. Spaghetti is acceptable; rigatoni is commonly used in Roman trattorias.
Black pepper and dried chili flakes (peperoncino): Both are used in different amounts by different cooks. The chili is optional but traditional.
The Onion Debate
The Amatrice recipe has no onion. Many Roman and Italian-American versions add half a white onion, which adds sweetness and body to the sauce. If you add onion, you are making a good pasta; if you don't, you are following the original. Both are defensible.
The Complete Recipe
Serves: 2 Time: 30 minutes
Ingredients
- 200g bucatini (or spaghetti)
- 150g guanciale, cut into 1cm strips or cubes
- 400g canned whole plum tomatoes (San Marzano if possible), crushed by hand
- 60g Pecorino Romano, finely grated
- ½ dried chili or ¼ teaspoon dried chili flakes (optional)
- Black pepper
- Salt (for pasta water; the guanciale and Pecorino are already salty — no additional salt needed in the sauce)
- Splash of white wine (optional — adds acidity; not traditional Amatrice)
Method
1. Render the guanciale: Place guanciale strips in a cold pan. Set to medium heat. Cook slowly, stirring occasionally, 8–10 minutes. The goal: the fat renders completely and the guanciale becomes golden-brown and slightly crispy on the edges but still has chew in the center. Remove approximately 1/3 of the rendered guanciale from the pan; set aside for topping. Leave the rest and the rendered fat in the pan.
2. Add chili (if using): Add dried chili to the rendered fat; fry 30 seconds.
3. Add wine (if using): Add a splash of white wine; let it sizzle and evaporate, 1 minute.
4. Build the tomato sauce: Add the crushed tomatoes to the pan. Season with black pepper (no salt yet). Cook at a vigorous simmer 15–20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and the oil separates around the edges.
5. Cook the pasta: Cook bucatini in generously salted water to 1 minute less than package directions. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water.
6. Finish: Add drained pasta to the tomato sauce; toss vigorously over medium heat. Add pasta water as needed to achieve a saucy coating consistency (not dry, not soupy). 2 minutes.
7. Serve: Into warm bowls. Add the reserved crispy guanciale on top; grate Pecorino Romano generously over the entire plate.
Related reading: Cacio e Pepe Roman Pasta Guide | Carbonara Guide | Risotto Italian Rice Guide
The full recipes live in the book.
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