The relationship between Portugal and bacalhau is unlike any other country's relationship to an ingredient. The Portuguese fished cod in the Grand Banks of Newfoundland from the early 16th century — in sailing ships (bacalhoeiros), on month-long voyages, salting the fish at sea to preserve it for the return journey. For centuries, bacalhau was the protein that fed Portugal through wars, famines, and economic hardship — cheap (before the Grand Banks became overfished), shelf-stable, available year-round. It was the food of poor fishermen, of fasting Catholics during Lent (when meat was forbidden), and of the ordinary Portuguese household.
Today bacalhau is neither cheap nor a poverty food — it is the prestige ingredient of Portuguese cooking, featured at the finest restaurants and served at celebrations. The 1,000+ preparations documented by food historians include everything from the humble (bacalhau cozido — poached with potato and vegetables) to the elaborate (bacalhau na cataplana — cooked in the traditional copper pan with clams and vegetables). Every Portuguese cook has a repertoire of bacalhau recipes inherited from their family.
Why Salting Changes the Fish
Salt cod is NOT fresh cod with some salt on it. The salting process creates a fundamentally different food:
Texture: Salt draws moisture out of the fish by osmosis. Over weeks of salting (and sometimes drying), the flesh loses a significant proportion of its water. When rehydrated, the flesh swells back but not to its original state — it becomes firmer, more fibrous, with a distinct chewiness that fresh cod does not have.
Flavor: The salt-preserved environment allows enzymatic reactions that break down proteins into amino acids (free glutamates) over time — creating a deeper, more complex umami flavor that fresh cod lacks. This is the same principle as aged cheese or cured meat.
Cooking behavior: Salt cod holds together better when cooked than fresh cod — it does not flake and dissolve as readily, making it suitable for long-braised preparations, layered dishes, and preparations where the fish needs to maintain some structure.
The Desalting Process
Why 24–48 hours: The salt concentration in properly preserved bacalhau is very high — eating it without desalting would be inedible. The soaking removes salt by osmosis (the water pulls salt out of the fish).
The method:
- Rinse the bacalhau under cold water
- Place in a large bowl; cover completely with cold water; refrigerate
- Change the water every 8–12 hours (3–4 changes total)
- After 24 hours: taste a small piece from the thickest part — it should be pleasantly salty (like a well-seasoned dish), not salty-sharp
- After 48 hours: fully desalted, suitable for all preparations
Temperature: Always desalt in the refrigerator — bacalhau desalted at room temperature in a warm kitchen can develop bacterial growth.
Thickness matters: A thin fillet may be ready in 24 hours; a thick center-cut piece needs 48 hours. Different thicknesses in the same piece desalt at different rates.
The Four Essential Preparations
Bacalhau à Brás: Shredded bacalhau cooked with onion and garlic in olive oil, mixed with very thin fried potato sticks (palha batata) and loosely scrambled eggs, garnished with olives and parsley. The eggs should be creamy and just barely set.
Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá: Named after a Porto merchant — layered bacalhau (shredded or in chunks), boiled potato slices, and boiled egg slices in a clay dish, baked with generous olive oil, garlic, and onion, then finished with olives and chopped parsley. Eaten at room temperature or warm.
Bacalhau com natas: Bacalhau in béchamel and cream, layered with potato, baked until golden and bubbling — the richest preparation.
Bacalhau assado (grilled): A thick piece of bacalhau, desalted, patted dry, brushed with olive oil and grilled over charcoal with sweet peppers and onion. Served with roasted potato, drizzled with more olive oil.
The Complete Recipe: Bacalhau à Brás
Serves: 4 | Time: 45 minutes (after desalting)
Ingredients
- 500g desalted bacalhau, skin and bones removed, shredded
- 300g very thin potato sticks (palha — shoestring fries; or use thin-cut frozen fries briefly fried)
- 5 eggs, lightly beaten
- 1 large onion, thinly sliced
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 12 black olives (azeitonas pretas)
- Handful flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
- Black pepper
Method
1. Fry potato sticks: Fry very thin potato sticks in oil until crispy and golden; drain and reserve. (Store-bought shoestring fries, fried briefly until crispy, work well.)
2. Cook the aromatics: Heat 4 tablespoons olive oil in a large wide pan; fry onion over medium heat 8–10 minutes until very soft and golden. Add garlic; cook 2 minutes.
3. Add the bacalhau: Add shredded bacalhau; stir and cook 5 minutes until heated through and the bacalhau is slightly golden in places.
4. Add potato sticks: Add the crispy potato sticks; toss gently to combine — the sticks should stay relatively crispy (add them just before the eggs).
5. Add eggs: Reduce heat to low; pour lightly beaten eggs over the mixture; stir continuously with a wooden spoon or spatula until the eggs form soft, creamy curds that are JUST barely set — do not cook to dryness.
6. Remove from heat immediately when the eggs look 70% set (they continue cooking from residual heat).
7. Serve: Garnish with olives and parsley; drizzle with remaining olive oil; dust with black pepper.
Serve immediately — bacalhau à Brás does not wait.
Related reading: Caldo Verde Portuguese Kale Soup Guide | Baccalà Italian Salt Cod Guide | Sarde in Saor Venetian Sardine Guide
The full recipes live in the book.
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