Borderless Kitchen

June 19, 2026 · 3 min read

Curry Puff: Southeast Asia's Fried Filled Pastry, Why the Spiral Crimp Is the Signature, the Potato and Chicken Curry Filling, and How the Kopitiam and Hawker Versions Differ

Curry puff (*karipap* in Malay, *epok-epok* in Malay/Singapore hawker dialect) is Southeast Asia's most popular fried pastry snack — a hand-sized half-moon or D-shaped pastry with a distinctive spiral crimped edge, filled with a dry, spiced filling of potato, chicken or sardine, hard-boiled egg, and curry powder, and deep-fried until golden. The spiral crimp (achieved by folding and pinching the pastry edge repeatedly) is the visual signature: a well-made curry puff has a tight, neat, multi-fold spiral edge rather than a simple pressed edge. The pastry is different from a Western pie crust — it is made with vegetable shortening or margarine (producing a flakier, more layered texture) and is noticeably lighter and crispier than shortcrust. The iconic version is Old Chang Kee's in Singapore; the Old Khek Kopitiam versions in Malaysia are equally celebrated. Variants include sardine filling and egg-only filling.

The spiral crimp is a craft skill in Southeast Asian pastry making. A simple pressed edge (pressing the tines of a fork along the seam) holds the filling in but looks plain; the spiral crimp requires a specific folding and rolling motion that creates a series of overlapping folds along the edge — functional (the multiple folds make it harder for oil to seep in during frying) and aesthetic (it signals a maker who took the time to do it properly). At hawker stalls and kopitiam bakeries across Singapore and Malaysia, the curry puff is often still made by hand; the crimp is individual to each maker.

The filling is dry by design. Unlike a Western meat pie (which has a gravy or sauce component), the curry puff filling is dry-fried — the potatoes and chicken are cooked with curry powder, onion, and aromatics until the moisture has cooked away completely and the filling is a dry, crumbly, intensely flavored mixture. A wet filling would sog the pastry from the inside; a dry filling lets the pastry stay crisp around it.

The egg component — a piece of hard-boiled egg, typically a quarter of an egg or a slice, embedded in the filling — provides richness and protein and is considered essential to the classic version.


The Pastry

Traditional Malay-style pastry: A short, flaky pastry made with flour, margarine or vegetable shortening, and water. Not as rich as a puff pastry (no laminated butter layers), but flakier and lighter than a standard shortcrust.

Ratio: Approximately 2:1 flour to fat; water added until dough comes together. Some versions use a small amount of milk powder for richness.

Handling: Minimal handling; resting the dough before rolling improves texture.

Thickness: Rolled to approximately 3mm; the pastry should be thin enough to fry to a crisp but thick enough to hold the filling without breaking.


The Filling

Potato: The foundation. Boiled and roughly mashed or diced — the filling has texture, not a smooth purée.

Chicken: Minced or finely diced chicken, cooked with the onion and curry powder until completely dry.

Curry powder: Malaysian or Sri Lankan curry powder (contains coriander, cumin, fennel, chili, turmeric). The curry powder is bloomed in oil with onion before adding the potato and chicken.

Onion: Cooked until soft and slightly caramelized before adding the potato and chicken.

The dry fry: All moisture must cook off — the filling should clump but not be sticky, and should not release liquid when pressed.


The Spiral Crimp Technique

  1. Place the filling on one half of the rolled pastry disc
  2. Fold the other half over; press the edge lightly to seal
  3. Starting at one end of the edge, fold a small triangle of pastry over onto itself; press
  4. Continue folding and pressing small sections along the entire edge, each fold overlapping the previous slightly
  5. The result is a rope-like spiral of overlapping folds along the entire seam

Practice helps: the fold should be consistent in size and pressure.


The Complete Recipe

Makes: 12 curry puffs | Time: 1.5 hours

Pastry

  • 300g all-purpose flour
  • 150g vegetable shortening or margarine, cold
  • 80–90ml cold water
  • ½ teaspoon salt

Filling

  • 300g potato (2 medium), peeled, boiled until tender, drained
  • 150g chicken breast, minced
  • 1 medium onion, finely diced
  • 2 tablespoons Malaysian curry powder
  • ½ teaspoon turmeric
  • 2 tablespoons neutral oil
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce or oyster sauce
  • Salt to taste

For Assembly

  • 3 hard-boiled eggs, each cut into 4 pieces
  • Neutral oil for deep-frying

Method

1. Make filling: Heat oil in a pan over medium; fry onion until soft and beginning to caramelize (8 minutes). Add curry powder and turmeric; stir 1 minute. Add minced chicken; stir until cooked through (5 minutes). Add potato (roughly crushed); soy sauce; stir. Continue cooking over medium-low heat, stirring, until the mixture is dry and clumping (another 5–8 minutes). Taste; adjust salt. Cool completely.

2. Make pastry: Combine flour and salt; rub in cold shortening until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add cold water gradually; bring together into a soft, smooth dough. Do not overwork. Wrap; rest 20 minutes.

3. Assemble: Divide dough into 12 equal portions. Roll each into a thin disc (approximately 12cm diameter). Place 2 tablespoons of filling on one half; place one piece of hard-boiled egg on top. Fold over; press to seal. Spiral-crimp the edge.

4. Fry: Heat oil to 170–175°C in a deep pot. Fry curry puffs in batches of 3–4, turning, for 4–5 minutes until golden all over. Remove; drain on paper towels.

Serve: Hot, within 15 minutes of frying — the pastry loses its crispness as it cools.


Related reading: Nasi Lemak Malaysian National Dish Guide | Popiah Hokkien Fresh Spring Roll Guide | Samosa Guide South Asian Fried Pastry

The full recipes live in the book.

Get Tokyo Meets Tuscany on Amazon

Paperback $24.99 · Hardcover $34.99 · eBook $9.99

Free download

Get the free Flavor Pairing Matrix.

The Italian × Japanese ingredient chart behind every recipe in the book. Enter your email — free PDF, one page.