Fabada is Asturian identity in a pot. The argument that Asturias makes the best food in Spain has adherents — the region is known for its seafood, its cider (sidra), its cheeses, and above all for the fabada. To eat fabada in Oviedo or Gijón is to understand why Asturians are proud: the beans are extraordinary, the smoked meats are exceptional, and the combination achieves a depth of flavor that simple ingredient lists don't predict.
The fabes de la Granja are the key. These large, elongated white beans grown in Asturias are protected by the Denomination of Origin and have specific characteristics — a very thin skin, a high starch content, and the ability to become creamy without falling apart — that genuinely cannot be replicated by cannellini, butter beans, or any other white bean. Outside Spain, fabes can be found at Spanish specialty food stores; the dried beans imported from Asturias are widely available online. They are worth seeking.
The Beans: Soaking and The Never-Boil Rule
Overnight soak: Fabes must be soaked in cold water for 12 hours minimum, usually overnight. They double in size; the skin hydrates; the cooking time reduces from impossible to manageable.
The never-boil rule: Fabes are destroyed by vigorous boiling — the skins split, the beans disintegrate, and the creamy interior becomes grainy. Fabada must be cooked at the lowest possible simmer — barely moving, the surface just trembling with occasional bubbles. This is the technique called chucherear (literally 'whispering') in Asturian cooking: so gentle the beans whisper in the pot.
The 'susto' (scare): Traditional recipes specify adding cold water to the pot once or twice during cooking — a susto (scare) — when the beans begin to boil too actively. The cold water shock calms the boil back to a simmer. This keeps the temperature from climbing.
Time: 2–3 hours at a whisper-simmer. Do not rush; the beans know.
El Compango: The Three Meats
The compango is sold as a set in Asturian shops — the three meats already measured and ready:
1. Chorizo asturiano: Not fresh; semi-cured, smoked. Different from Basque or Andalusian chorizo — specifically smoked over wood (ahumado), paprika-red, firm. This is what colors the broth.
2. Morcilla asturiana: Blood sausage, smoked. Darker and richer than standard morcilla; the Asturian version uses rice and/or onion as filler.
3. Lacón: Cured and smoked pork shoulder (paleta curada ahumada). The largest piece; provides body and collagen; the cooking liquid from simmering lacón becomes the base broth of the fabada.
Adding them whole: The meats go into the pot whole — not sliced — at the beginning. They release their flavors slowly into the beans over the full cooking time. They are sliced for serving.
The Saffron and Other Seasonings
Traditional fabada uses:
- Saffron (azafrán) — a pinch dissolved in a spoon of warm water, added in the first hour; gives color and a faint floral depth
- Bay leaf — one or two
- Olive oil — added at the beginning
- No onion, no garlic in the classical version — they are considered unnecessary when the compango is good quality
The beans should not be seasoned with salt until the last 30 minutes — salt added too early prevents the beans from softening properly.
The Complete Recipe
Serves: 6 | Time: 2.5–3 hours (+ overnight soak)
Ingredients
- 500g fabes de la Granja (dried Asturian white beans), soaked overnight in cold water
- 2 pieces chorizo asturiano (about 200g total)
- 2 pieces morcilla asturiana (about 150g total)
- 300g lacón (cured smoked pork shoulder piece)
- Generous pinch of saffron, dissolved in 2 tablespoons warm water
- 2 bay leaves
- 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- Salt (added only in the last 30 minutes)
- Cold water (for the susto)
Method
1. Start the pot: Drain soaked fabes; place in a large pot. Cover with cold water by 8–10cm. Add lacón, chorizo, morcilla, saffron water, bay leaves, and olive oil. Do not add salt.
2. Bring to a gentle simmer: Bring to a boil; immediately reduce to the absolute lowest heat. The surface should barely move.
3. The susto: If the pot starts to boil actively (bubbles breaking the surface), add a cup of cold water immediately to reduce the temperature.
4. Cook 2–3 hours: Maintain the whisper-simmer. After 2 hours, taste a bean — the exterior should be intact, the interior should be very creamy. If not, continue 30 more minutes.
5. Remove and slice meats: Remove chorizo, morcilla, and lacón from the pot. Slice into rounds (chorizo, morcilla) and pieces (lacón).
6. Season: Add salt; stir gently. Taste the broth — it should be smoky, rich, slightly paprika-red, and deeply savory.
Serve: Beans first in deep bowls, meats arranged on top. With rustic bread. Traditionally eaten with sidra (Asturian cider) poured escanciada (from height).
Related reading: Cocido Madrileño Spanish Chickpea Stew Guide | Cassoulet French White Bean Stew Guide | Cozido à Portuguesa Mixed Boil Guide
The full recipes live in the book.
Get Tokyo Meets Tuscany on AmazonPaperback $24.99 · Hardcover $34.99 · eBook $9.99