Ganjang (간장) is Korean soy sauce — but calling it simply "Korean soy sauce" undersells the complexity of what's actually a two-category system with fundamentally different production methods, flavors, and uses.
The Two Types of Korean Ganjang
1. Joseon Ganjang (조선간장) — Traditional Korean Soy Sauce
Also called hansik ganjang (Korean-style soy sauce), this is the authentic, traditionally fermented Korean soy sauce produced via the meju (메주) method.
How it's made:
- Whole soybeans are cooked, mashed, and shaped into meju blocks (rectangular or ball-shaped bricks of compressed soybean paste)
- Meju blocks are dried, then hung or left to ferment in the open air for weeks — during which they're colonized by wild molds, bacteria, and yeasts (predominantly Aspergillus, Bacillus, and Lactobacillus species)
- The fermented meju blocks are submerged in salted water in large ceramic onggi jars
- After fermentation (months, sometimes years), the liquid is strained off — this liquid is ganjang
- The solids left behind are doenjang (fermented soybean paste)
Flavor: Joseon ganjang is dark, complex, earthy, and pungent — with more pronounced fermentation character than Japanese soy sauce. It has pronounced sourness, salt, and an almost wine-like complexity from the long fermentation. Aged joseon ganjang (geuk ganjang, aged 3+ years) is one of the most complex condiments in Korean cuisine.
Color: Darker and less transparent than Japanese soy sauce.
Uses: Primarily used in soups and stews (guk and jjigae), namul (seasoned vegetable side dishes), and dishes where strong soy flavor is needed. The robust flavor can stand up to long cooking.
2. Jin Ganjang (진간장) — Dark/Brewed Soy Sauce
Also called yangjo ganjang (brewed soy sauce), this is the Korean equivalent of the Japanese-style soy sauce — produced using the koji method (controlled Aspergillus fermentation) rather than the wild-ferment meju method.
Jin ganjang was introduced to Korea in the early 20th century via Japanese industrialization, and brands like Sempio became the primary source for most Korean households' daily soy sauce through the mid-20th century.
Flavor: Milder, sweeter, and less funky than joseon ganjang. More similar in character to Japanese shoyu (particularly koikuchi shoyu). Less fermentation complexity, more consistent.
Color: Similar to Japanese dark soy sauce — deep reddish-brown, translucent.
Uses: More versatile in everyday Korean cooking — marinades, dipping sauces, stir-fries, bulgogi. The cleaner flavor makes it better for dishes where the soy is a seasoning background rather than a primary flavor.
Joseon Ganjang vs. Jin Ganjang: Quick Reference
| | Joseon Ganjang | Jin Ganjang | |---|---|---| | Fermentation | Wild (meju method) | Controlled (koji method) | | Flavor | Complex, earthy, funky, sour | Milder, sweeter, cleaner | | Salinity | Very salty | Moderately salty | | Color | Very dark, opaque | Dark, translucent | | Best for | Soups, stews, namul | Marinades, dipping, stir-fry | | Shelf life | Longer (very salty) | Standard (6-18 months) | | Price | Usually more expensive | Standard commercial |
Korean Ganjang vs. Japanese Shoyu
The most important comparison for cooks who work across both traditions:
Fermentation base: Japanese shoyu uses soybeans + wheat fermented with controlled koji mold. Korean joseon ganjang uses soybeans only, with wild fermentation. Jin ganjang uses a koji-based process closer to Japanese production.
Saltiness: Korean joseon ganjang is generally saltier than most Japanese shoyu. Jin ganjang is closer to Japanese salinity levels.
Sweetness: Japanese shoyu tends to have more inherent sweetness (from wheat fermentation). Korean ganjang has less sweetness and more pronounced sour-earthy character.
The substitution question: For most everyday applications, a good jin ganjang and Japanese koikuchi shoyu are relatively interchangeable (though Korean and Japanese cooks would disagree). Joseon ganjang is distinctly different from Japanese shoyu and should not be substituted directly — the flavor is too different for dishes where soy sauce is central.
What to Buy
For everyday Korean cooking: Jin ganjang — Sempio brand is the most widely available internationally. Bibigo and other brands are also good.
For traditional Korean soy sauce character: Joseon ganjang — available at Korean grocery stores, sometimes labeled hansik ganjang. Artisanal brands from Korea are also available online.
The practical setup for serious Korean cooking: One bottle of each. Use joseon ganjang for soups and seasoned vegetables; use jin ganjang for marinades, dips, and general cooking. This matches how traditional Korean households use them.
Ganjang is the flavor foundation of Korean cuisine in the way that salt is the flavor foundation of Western cuisine — it's used in nearly every dish and its quality profoundly affects the result. Understanding the difference between joseon ganjang and jin ganjang, and between Korean and Japanese soy sauce, gives you more precise control over Korean and Japanese-Korean cooking.
Related reading: Japanese vs. Korean Fermentation | What Is Doenjang? | Japanese Soy Sauce Types Guide
The full recipes live in the book.
Get Tokyo Meets Tuscany on AmazonPaperback $24.99 · Hardcover $34.99 · eBook $9.99