Haemul Pajeon Recipe: Korean Seafood Scallion Pancake

Haemul pajeon (해물파전) — "seafood green onion pancake" — is a specific version of pajeon (scallion pancake) that adds seafood. The combination of green onions, shrimp, squid, and sometimes oysters in a savory batter, pan-fried in oil until the bottom forms a crackling, crunchy crust, is one of the most deeply satisfying things Korean cooking produces.

Pajeon specifically is associated with rainy days in Korea — there's a proverb connecting the sound of rain on windows to the sound of pajeon sizzling in oil, and pajeon sales reliably spike when it rains. It's eaten with makgeolli (Korean rice wine, milky and slightly fizzy) at pojangmacha street stalls.

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The Batter

Pajeon batter is thicker and more savory than American pancake batter. It's designed to create a substantial structure that holds the seafood and green onions in place during cooking.

Traditional batter uses both wheat flour and rice flour — the wheat flour provides gluten structure; the rice flour adds a crispy texture at the edges that wheat alone can't achieve.

Ingredients (for 1 large pancake, 2-3 servings):

Batter:

• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/4 cup rice flour (or glutinous rice flour for extra chewiness)
• 1 cup cold water (or even colder — ice water produces a crisper result)
• 1 egg
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon white pepper

The seafood:

• 6-8 medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 1 small squid (cleaned, tentacles and body), cut into rings and pieces
• Optional: 6-8 oysters (shucked, drained well)
• Optional: 2-3 dried anchovies soaked briefly (adds depth)

The green onions:

• 1 large bunch green onions (about 10-12), trimmed to the length of your pan

For cooking:

• 3-4 tablespoons neutral oil (more than you think — the oil is what creates the crispy bottom)

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The Dipping Sauce

Essential. Pajeon without dipping sauce is incomplete.

• 3 tablespoons soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon rice vinegar
• 1 teaspoon sesame oil
• 1 teaspoon sesame seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon gochugaru (optional, for heat)
• 1/2 teaspoon sugar
• 1 tablespoon green onion, finely sliced

Combine and set aside.

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Method

1. Prepare the Seafood

Cut shrimp in half lengthwise (so they lay flat and cook evenly). Cut squid into manageable pieces. If using oysters, drain thoroughly — excess water from oysters is the biggest enemy of pancake crispiness.

2. Make the Batter

Combine flour, rice flour, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Add cold water and egg. Whisk until smooth — but do not overmix. A few lumps are acceptable; overmixed batter produces a tough pancake.

The batter should be slightly thicker than cream. If it pours freely, add a tablespoon more flour. If it's stiff, add a tablespoon more cold water.

3. Assemble in the Pan

This is the key technique for haemul pajeon — you assemble in the pan rather than mixing everything into the batter.

1. Heat a large pan (25-30cm) over medium-high heat. Add generous oil (3-4 tablespoons) — the oil should coat the entire bottom.
2. When the oil is hot (a drop of batter sizzles immediately), lay half the green onions across the bottom of the pan in a single layer.
3. Pour half the batter over the green onions — just enough to hold them together.
4. Arrange the seafood on top of the batter in an even layer.
5. Pour remaining batter over the seafood.
6. Lay remaining green onions on top of the batter.

4. Cook

Don't touch it for 4-5 minutes. Medium-high heat. Let the bottom form a deep golden crust.

At 4-5 minutes, slide a spatula under the pancake. It should release cleanly. If it's sticking, cook another minute.

Flip in one confident motion. If you're nervous, use a plate — invert the pancake onto a plate, then slide it back into the pan top-side down.

Cook the second side 3-4 minutes until golden.

Optional: press the pancake lightly with a spatula during the second side cooking. This increases contact between the batter and the pan and produces a more uniformly crispy surface.

5. Serve

Slide onto a cutting board. Cut into wedges or rectangles. Serve immediately with dipping sauce.

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The Crispy Bottom Technique

The most common failure in homemade pajeon: a soft, slightly gummy bottom rather than the crackly, deeply golden crust from restaurant versions.

Three causes:

1. Insufficient oil. You need 3-4 tablespoons minimum in a 28-30cm pan — enough that the bottom of the pancake is actually frying, not just touching a lightly greased surface.
2. Insufficient heat. Medium-high throughout — the oil should be shimmering and the pancake should sizzle audibly when it goes in.
3. Wet seafood. Pat the seafood dry with paper towels before adding. Oysters especially need to be thoroughly drained.

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Variations

Plain pajeon (no seafood): Just green onions and batter. Simple, extremely good. The traditional version.

Kimchi jeon (김치전): Substitute kimchi for the seafood and reduce some of the green onion. Use well-fermented kimchi for maximum flavor.

Gamja jeon (감자전): Made from grated potato, pan-fried until crispy. No flour — the potato starch binds the pancake. Completely different texture.

Bindaetteok (빈대떡): Mung bean pancake — batter made from ground soaked mung beans rather than wheat flour. Heartier, nuttier flavor. Traditionally sold at Gwangjang Market in Seoul.

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Makgeolli Pairing

Makgeolli (막걸리) is the traditional pairing for pajeon — a milky, lightly sparkling rice wine with low alcohol (6-8%) and a slightly sour, yeasty flavor. The crispy savoriness of pajeon with the cold, slightly fizzy makgeolli is one of Korea's great food-drink combinations.

Available at Korean grocery stores (refrigerated section, usually in tall plastic bottles). Shake before pouring — the solids settle at the bottom. Drink it in small cups, refilled frequently.