An izakaya is the Japanese pub — but that translation undersells it. British pubs serve beer with crisps and sometimes food. An izakaya serves alcohol alongside a serious menu of small plates, skewers, sashimi, and cooked dishes, in a social atmosphere that encourages two to three hours of eating and drinking together.
The word combines iru (to stay/be present) and sakaya (sake shop). An izakaya is a place to stay at the sake shop — a place for lingering.
The Structure of an Izakaya Visit
Otoshi: In Japan, sitting down at most izakayas automatically incurs a small cover charge (usually ¥300-600) and a small plate of food called otoshi — an automatic appetizer you didn't order. This is the Japanese equivalent of a bread basket, but you pay for it. At izakayas outside Japan, this may or may not apply.
Ordering style: Izakayas are not set-menu restaurants. You order as you go — a few dishes to start, more as the evening continues. The food arrives as it's ready, not in courses. Multiple dishes arrive simultaneously.
The first order: As soon as you're seated, the server takes a drink order. The first round is almost always beer — the Japanese ritual torikaezu biiru (とりあえずビール), "first, beer," is one of the most encoded phrases in the izakaya experience.
The Menu Categories
Tsukidashi / Otoshi: The automatic small appetizer. Often pickles, a small salad, or edamame.
Edamame: Always first. Boiled and salted green soybeans in the pod. Simple, perfect with cold beer. Free or very cheap.
Sashimi: Raw fish. An izakaya will have a daily sashimi selection — ask what's fresh.
Yakitori: Grilled chicken skewers with tare or shio seasoning. The definitive izakaya food. Essential.
Karaage: Fried chicken. Standard at most izakayas. The lemon-squeeze and Kewpie mayo presentation is the standard.
Agedashi tofu: Fried silken tofu in dashi broth. Light, elegant, a good palate reset between heavier dishes.
Gyoza: Pan-fried dumplings. Often decent at izakayas because the fryers are busy and the technique is consistent.
Salads: Japanese potato salad, green salad with Japanese dressing.
Tsukemono: Pickles. A small plate of various pickled vegetables.
Noodles/rice: Ordered toward the end of the evening — izakaya meals traditionally end with a carbohydrate. Ochazuke (rice in green tea), omurice, or a light ramen.
What to Order First
For 4 people starting an izakaya evening:
- Edamame (always)
- Sashimi selection (ask for seasonal recommendation)
- 6-8 yakitori skewers, mixed (thigh, negima, tsukune)
- Karaage (one plate)
- Agedashi tofu
Second round:
- More yakitori
- Grilled fish (often whole, seasonal)
- Japanese-style potato salad
- Pickles
End of evening:
- Ochazuke or light noodles
The Drinking
Beer: The default opening drink. Most izakayas serve Sapporo, Asahi, Kirin, or Suntory draft.
Highball (ハイボール): Whisky and soda water. Extremely popular at modern izakayas. Goes with food better than beer for a long meal.
Shochu: Distilled from sweet potato, barley, or rice. Stronger than sake, often drunk with soda water (shochu soda) or straight on ice.
Sake: Hot sake (atsukan) in cold months, cold sake (reishu) in summer. Ordered in tokkuri (ceramic flasks) and drunk from small cups.
Umeshu: Plum wine. Sweet, lower alcohol. Good for those who don't want spirits.
The Izakaya Timeline
A proper izakaya evening in Japan:
- 6:00-6:30pm: Arrive with colleagues after work
- Immediately: beer + edamame
- 6:30-8:00pm: Progressive ordering — yakitori, sashimi, fried dishes
- 8:00-9:30pm: Later dishes, conversation, perhaps more rounds
- 9:30pm: Final noodle/rice dish
- Leave for karaoke or second venue (nijikai, 二次会)
The Japanese have a specific word for going to a second location after the first bar: nijikai. The izakaya is just the beginning.
Outside Japan, izakaya-style restaurants have become a significant dining category in major cities. The best ones replicate not just the food but the ordering culture — the progressive accumulation of small plates over a long, convivial evening. That's the experience.
The full recipes live in the book.
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