Katsu curry (カツカレー) is one of Japan's most beloved comfort foods — a combination plate of Japanese curry rice topped with a panko-breaded, deep-fried pork cutlet. It combines two dishes (tonkatsu and curry rice) that both arrived in Japan through Western and British influence in the Meiji era, developed independently for decades, and at some point were combined into something more satisfying than either alone.
The Three Components
1. Japanese Curry
Japanese curry is built around a roux-based sauce thickened with wheat flour — the opposite of Indian curry's spice-in-oil approach. Standard home-cooking method uses store-bought curry blocks (S&B Golden, House Vermont, or similar), which dissolve in the cooking liquid and produce a glossy, moderately thick sauce.
Key characteristics:
- Thickness: Noticeably thicker than Indian curry — should coat the rice, not pool around it
- Sweetness: Significantly sweet from apple, honey, and onion — a Japanese adaptation
- Heat: Mild to medium by default; the "medium hot" blocks are still relatively mild by Indian or Thai standards
- Vegetables: Potato, carrot, and onion are the traditional additions; these vegetables nearly dissolve into the sauce during cooking
From scratch: Sweat 2 large onions until deeply caramelized (30-40 minutes, very important for depth). Add chicken or pork. Add grated apple (1 small apple, about 100g), water, and curry block. Simmer until vegetables are soft and sauce has thickened.
2. Tonkatsu
The pork cutlet component:
- Pork loin (hire) or collar (rosu), about 150g per serving
- Flour → beaten egg → panko breading
- Deep-fry at 165°C (cook through), then a second fry at 190°C (crisp the exterior)
- Rest 2 minutes, slice into 3cm strips
The double fry is essential — a single fry at one temperature produces either an undercooked interior or an overcooked, tough exterior.
3. Assembly
Standard service: rice on the left half of the oval plate; curry sauce covering the right half; sliced tonkatsu laid across the divide so both the curry and the rice are partially under the cutlet.
The timing: The tonkatsu should be placed on the curry immediately before serving. If it sits in the curry for more than a few minutes, the panko crust begins to absorb moisture and softens. In the best katsu curry, the crust is still slightly crispy under the sauce.
Fukujinzuke: The small pile of dark reddish-brown pickled vegetables that accompanies almost every curry rice dish in Japan — a mix of pickled daikon, lotus root, eggplant, cucumber, and other vegetables. Provides textural contrast and salt to balance the sweet curry.
Regional Styles and CoCo Ichibanya
CoCo Ichibanya (ココイチ): Japan's dominant curry chain, with over 1,000 locations. The CoCo Ichibanya system allows level-by-level customization: spice level (0 through 10), rice volume (100g through 500g in 50g increments), toppings. The sauce is milder and more standardized than homemade; the spice levels above 5 are legitimately hot. CoCo Ichibanya has international locations in Asia and, since 2013, the US.
Kanazawa curry: Kanazawa City in Ishikawa Prefecture has a distinct local style — darker sauce, more bitter, topped with shredded cabbage (not pickled), and eaten with a spork (a combination spoon-fork tool unique to Kanazawa curry shops). Several Kanazawa curry chains (Gojūban, Champion Curry) exist.
Tokyo restaurant curry: Higher-end curry restaurants in Tokyo source spices individually, building complex spice blends, and aim for something closer to Japanese-refined South Asian curry rather than the block-based version. These can be remarkable.
Katsu curry demonstrates how Japanese cuisine processes Western and global influences: the curry came from India via Britain, the cutlet came from European schnitzel via Japan's own Meiji-era enthusiasm for Western food. Each was transformed significantly in isolation, then combined into something that bears only a notional resemblance to its origins — a uniquely Japanese dish that uses the structure of both sources while tasting like neither.
The full recipes live in the book.
Get Tokyo Meets Tuscany on AmazonPaperback $24.99 · Hardcover $34.99 · eBook $9.99