The word shoyu (醤油) means soy sauce in Japanese. Most people know one type — the dark, salty sauce in the Kikkoman bottle. Japan produces five additional distinct categories, each with different flavor profiles, colors, salt contents, and intended applications.
Using the wrong type is a common error in home Japanese cooking — using koikuchi (dark, standard) in a delicate chawanmushi custard turns it dark and salty; using shiro (pale) soy for dipping sashimi produces almost no visible sauce and inadequate salt.
The Six Types
Koikuchi Shoyu (濃口醤油) — Dark, Standard
Color: Dark reddish-brown Salt content: ~16-18% Flavor: Full-bodied, savory, slightly sweet, the most umami-forward
The standard: Represents 80%+ of all soy sauce consumed in Japan. The Kikkoman red-cap bottle. Used for cooking and table dipping.
When to use: Everything that doesn't require color preservation. Teriyaki, braising (nikujaga, galbi-style dishes using Japanese technique), dipping gyoza or dumplings, stir-fries, marinades, tonkotsu ramen seasoning.
When NOT to use: Clear broths, pale dishes, delicate custards, anything where visible darkening would be a problem.
Usukuchi Shoyu (薄口醤油) — Light Color, Higher Salt
Color: Pale amber — significantly lighter than koikuchi Salt content: ~18-19% — actually saltier than koikuchi by weight Flavor: More delicate, less roasty, slightly lighter body
The Kansai soy sauce: Usukuchi is the dominant soy sauce of Kansai (Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe) cuisine. The Kansai tradition prizes ingredients' natural colors — usukuchi allows clear dashi soups, pale egg dishes, and lightly colored braises to maintain their visual clarity.
When to use:
- Dashimaki tamago and chawanmushi — color preservation essential
- Clear soups (suimono): the elegance of the broth should be visible
- Light-colored nimono (simmered dishes)
- White fish applications where you don't want visible soy coloration
Common mistake: People assume "light color = light flavor = less salty." Usukuchi is actually saltier. Use less of it by volume than koikuchi.
Brand: Higashimaru is the canonical Kansai usukuchi brand.
Tamari (たまり) — The Original, Wheat-Free
Color: Very dark, almost black Salt content: ~16-18%, but higher glutamate from the wheat-free process Flavor: Intensely umami, rich, thick, slightly sweet
The historical: Tamari is the original soy sauce — it was originally the liquid that dripped from fermenting miso paste (hence its relationship to doenjang jjigae's flavor profile). Today it is made as a standalone product, almost entirely without wheat (some modern tamari contains a small percentage).
When to use:
- Sashimi and sushi dipping: classic application; the thick body coats the fish differently from thin koikuchi
- Finishing sauce: a few drops at the end of braised dishes
- Anyone with wheat sensitivity — most tamari is gluten-free
- Grilled foods: the thickness clings and caramelizes
Brand: Yamasa or San-J tamari are widely available.
Shiro Shoyu (白醤油) — The Palest, Most Delicate
Color: Pale gold to light amber — almost like apple juice Salt content: ~18% Flavor: Light, slightly sweet, low in the roasty compounds that give koikuchi its dark character
Specialty application: Shiro shoyu is made primarily from wheat with a small amount of soy beans — the reverse ratio from most soy sauces. This produces a dramatically lighter color and a sweeter, more delicate flavor.
When to use:
- Chawanmushi: the definitive application
- Suimono (clear soups): maximizes the clarity and delicacy
- White fish in very delicate preparations
- Cold dishes where no color should be imparted
Important note: Shiro shoyu is very heat-sensitive — it loses its delicacy quickly when cooked at high heat. Best used at the end of cooking or in cold applications.
Saishikomi Shoyu (再仕込み醤油) — Double-Brewed
Color: Very dark, darker than koikuchi Salt content: ~18% but lower perceived saltiness Flavor: The richest, most complex; the second brewing creates deeper fermented compounds
Production: Standard koikuchi soy sauce is used as the brine for the second fermentation instead of saltwater — hence "double-brewed" or "twice-fermented."
When to use:
- Sashimi dipping: the complexity shows
- Simple dishes where the sauce is the primary flavor
- Dipping cold tofu (hiyayakko)
Brand: Pearl or Yamasa both produce high-quality saishikomi.
Gen-en Shoyu (減塩醤油) — Reduced Sodium
Color: Similar to koikuchi Salt content: ~9% (approximately half of standard) Flavor: Less assertive, slightly different character from the reduced fermentation salt
Application: Medical dietary needs or those reducing sodium. Not a stylistic choice — it changes the flavor character slightly. For most cooking applications, it's better to simply use less standard soy sauce than to substitute gen-en.
The practical home Japanese cooking pantry:
- Always have: Koikuchi (standard all-purpose)
- If cooking Kansai or making egg dishes: Usukuchi
- For sashimi and finishing: Tamari
- For chawanmushi and delicate clear soups: Shiro shoyu
Understanding these six types is one of the higher-leverage upgrades available to a home Japanese cook. The ingredient choice changes the dish's color, salt level, and flavor character in ways that technique alone cannot compensate for.
The full recipes live in the book.
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