Udon is Japan's thick wheat flour noodle — but the category contains more variation than any single bowl suggests. The thickness can range from 3mm (Inaniwa) to 8mm or more (Sanuki). The texture can be chewy-elastic, soft-silky, or springy. The cross-section can be round, square, or flat. Each regional style reflects a different optimization for texture, local water quality, and tradition.
Sanuki Udon (讃岐うどん) — Kagawa Prefecture
The most famous and most imitated style. Sanuki (the old name for Kagawa Prefecture on Shikoku island) produces a noodle characterized by:
- Thickness: Medium-thick, roughly 3.5-4.5mm
- Cross-section: Square edges (distinctive)
- Texture: The defining characteristic — koshi (コシ). An extreme chewiness and elasticity. The noodle resists the bite, snaps back, and has a structural integrity that softer udon lacks.
Why Sanuki produces this texture: The specific wheat varieties grown in the Sanuki Plain combined with the region's soft water (low mineral content, which affects gluten development) produce a noodle dough that, when properly worked, develops exceptional gluten structure.
How to eat: In Kagawa, udon is eaten as the cheapest, most casual possible food. A bowl of basic kake udon (plain broth, nothing on top) costs ¥150-200. Self-service shops where you carry your bowl and add your own toppings dominate. You eat standing. You don't linger.
Inaniwa Udon (稲庭うどん) — Akita Prefecture
The opposite of Sanuki. Where Sanuki is thick and chewy, Inaniwa is thin (2-3mm), flat, silky, and smooth.
Production method: Inaniwa is hand-stretched — made by repeatedly twisting and stretching dough around two wooden dowels until it becomes extremely thin. This process is more labor-intensive than machine rolling and produces a different noodle structure: less gluten network per cross-section, resulting in the silky texture.
History: Considered one of Japan's three great noodles (along with Sanuki udon and Nagatoro somen). A feudal gift to the shogunate in Edo period.
Served: Usually cold (zaru style, with dipping broth) rather than hot, because the delicate texture is better showcased cold. The silky surface catches the tsuyu differently from thick noodles.
Kishimen (きしめん) — Nagoya
Flat, wide, and thin. Kishimen is cut into wide flat ribbons (5-7mm wide, 1-2mm thick) rather than round or square cross-sections. The large surface area makes it cook quickly and creates a soft, almost pasta-like texture — less chew than Sanuki, but distinct from Inaniwa's silkiness.
Nagoya serving style: In strong dashi (katsuobushi-forward), with flat slices of kamaboko fish cake, spinach, and bonito flakes on top. The broth tends to be darker than Kyoto or Tokyo styles.
Goto Udon (五島うどん) — Goto Islands, Nagasaki
Made with a small amount of camellia oil incorporated into the dough. The oil coats the gluten strands, producing a distinctly springy, elastic texture different from either Sanuki or Inaniwa.
Serving style: Jigoku daki (地獄炊き — "hell cooking") — the udon is cooked in boiling water at the table and dipped in raw egg and soy sauce. Very old-fashioned preparation.
Tokyo vs Osaka Broth
The noodle styles involve regional variation, but so does the broth:
- Tokyo (Kanto) style: Darker broth, more soy-forward, higher salt content. Uses koikuchi soy.
- Osaka (Kansai) style: Lighter-colored broth (uses usukuchi light-colored soy), more subtle, dashi-forward. The Osaka claim is that light broth showcases the noodle rather than overwhelming it.
Udon's regional diversity reflects how a single simple ingredient (wheat flour, water, salt) can produce radically different eating experiences depending on technique, wheat variety, water mineral content, and tradition. The noodle itself is the product — not the toppings. The regional udon shops of Japan treat their noodles with the same specificity that a winery treats their grape variety.
The full recipes live in the book.
Get Tokyo Meets Tuscany on AmazonPaperback $24.99 · Hardcover $34.99 · eBook $9.99