Katsudon (カツ丼) is what happens when a tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet) goes into a bowl instead of onto a plate. The tonkatsu is already cooked — fried, crispy, perfect as a standalone dish. But for katsudon, it goes into a small pan with dashi, soy, mirin, and onion, simmers briefly, receives a beaten egg, and is poured over rice while the egg is half-set.
The simmer changes the dish. The crispy panko crust absorbs the savory dashi broth, softening from the outside in. The interior of the cutlet remains juicy; the exterior softens to something between a crust and a bread-like layer saturated with broth. The egg binds the whole pan's contents — pork, onion, broth — into a cohesive topping rather than separate components.
Katsudon and tonkatsu are made from the same component. Katsudon is the better dish.
The Tonkatsu First
Making katsudon requires a cooked tonkatsu. You can use leftover tonkatsu from a previous meal or make it fresh.
Tonkatsu (1 serving):
- 1 pork loin cutlet, about 150g, 1.5-2cm thick
- Salt and pepper
- 2 tablespoons flour
- 1 egg, beaten
- 1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs
- Oil for frying (vegetable or sunflower)
Method:
- Pat pork dry. Season both sides with salt and pepper. Score the fat edge with small cuts every 2cm — this prevents the cutlet from curling during frying.
- Dredge in flour (shake off excess), dip in beaten egg, coat in panko (press to adhere).
- Fry in oil at 170°C (340°F), 3-4 minutes per side, until deep golden and cooked through. The cutlet is done when it sounds hollow when tapped.
- Rest on a rack 2-3 minutes. Slice into 3-4 pieces with a sharp knife — the cutlet should hold its panko coating when cut.
The Katsudon Broth
Per serving:
- 100ml dashi
- 2 tablespoons soy sauce
- 2 tablespoons mirin
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- 1/4 medium onion, sliced thin
The Assembly
-
Simmer onion. Add the broth ingredients and sliced onion to a small pan (18-20cm). Simmer over medium heat 3-4 minutes until onion is softened and slightly translucent.
-
Add tonkatsu. Lay the sliced tonkatsu pieces in the pan, overlapping slightly. Ladle broth over the cutlet repeatedly — you're not deep-simmering, just allowing the broth to permeate. Cook 1-2 minutes.
-
Add egg. Beat 2 eggs lightly (not fully homogeneous — some striation is fine). Pour evenly over the contents of the pan.
-
Half-set. Cover and cook 45-60 seconds over medium heat. The egg edges should be set; the center should still be barely fluid. Remove from heat — the residual heat finishes the center.
-
Slide over rice. Place a serving of hot rice in a wide, deep bowl. Slide the entire pan contents directly over the rice, centered.
-
Serve immediately. The egg continues to set slightly over the rice. Garnish with green onion, a pickled plum (umeboshi), or a small side of shredded cabbage.
The Egg Timing
The egg in katsudon is set to the same soft standard as oyakodon — barely set, the center still mobile. The timing is slightly different: the tonkatsu takes up more pan surface and retains more heat, so the egg may set faster than in oyakodon (which is mostly broth). Check at 40 seconds, not 60.
A fully cooked egg in katsudon is a texture failure — the egg should bind rather than set completely, creating a sauce-like layer rather than a hard cooked topping.
Katsudon in Japanese Culture
Katsudon has an unusual cultural association in Japan: it is traditionally eaten before exams and competitions because katsu (カツ) is a homophone of katsu (勝つ, "to win"). The word play is weak but the tradition is strong — Japanese students eat katsudon the night before university entrance exams, athletes before competitions, and salarypeople before important presentations.
This association gives katsudon a warmth that exceeds its ingredients. It's the meal someone's mother makes before you do something scary.
Other Katsu Variations
The katsu donburi format extends to other proteins:
- Chicken katsudon (チキンカツ丼): Same method with chicken breast instead of pork. Chicken katsu is typically thinner (1cm) and cooks faster (2-3 minutes per side).
- Ebi katsudon (エビカツ丼): Shrimp katsu — shrimp patties breaded and fried, then simmered. Less common but excellent.
- Miso katsudon: The Nagoya (Aichi prefecture) variation — miso katsu, where the cutlet is covered in a thick red miso sauce (hatcho miso) instead of simmered in dashi. A regional distinctiveness that locals are proud of and visitors are initially confused by.
The full recipes live in the book.
Get Tokyo Meets Tuscany on AmazonPaperback $24.99 · Hardcover $34.99 · eBook $9.99