Korean ganjang (간장) is soy sauce — but Korean cooking uses three distinct types that differ in production method, flavor character, and application. Treating them as interchangeable produces noticeably wrong results: hansik ganjang in a dipping sauce tastes funky and medicinal; yangjo ganjang in a soup tastes flat and sweet.
The Three Types
Hansik Ganjang (한식간장 — Traditional Korean Soy Sauce)
Also called joseon ganjang, jip ganjang (house soy sauce), or soup soy sauce.
Production: Made from meju — blocks of dried, fermented soybeans that have developed wild mold and yeast colonies. The meju is dissolved in brine, fermented for months in earthenware onggi jars. The liquid strained off becomes hansik ganjang; the solid remains become doenjang.
Character: Very dark (nearly black), saltier than Japanese soy sauce, with a pronounced funkiness from the wild fermentation — similar to the pungency of doenjang but in liquid form. The flavor is complex and slightly bitter, less sweet than yangjo ganjang.
Uses: Specifically for soups (guk, tang, jjigae) — the funky, intense character disperses through a large volume of liquid and adds depth without creating imbalance. Also used in namul (seasoned vegetable dishes) where its character complements the blanched vegetables.
Not for: Dipping sauces, raw applications where the flavor would be overwhelming. Never for sashimi.
Yangjo Ganjang (양조간장 — Brewed Soy Sauce)
Production: Made using Japanese koji-brewing methods — controlled Aspergillus fermentation of soybeans and wheat, similar to Japanese koikuchi soy sauce. Standardized, consistent, more predictable than hansik ganjang. Most commercial Korean soy sauces sold in bottles are yangjo.
Character: Lighter brown, sweeter, less funky, more immediately palatable to those unfamiliar with traditional Korean ferments. Similar to Japanese soy sauce but with slight differences in grain ratio and fermentation time.
Uses: General-purpose. Dipping sauces (japchae dipping sauce, pork belly), marinades, salad dressings, braising where you want soy flavor without the funk of hansik ganjang. The everyday soy sauce in modern Korean households.
Jin Ganjang (진간장 — Dark/Thick Soy Sauce)
Production: Yangjo ganjang that has been aged longer (typically 2-3 years). The aging concentrates the flavor and darkens the color further. Also sometimes refers to yangjo ganjang blended with artificial color and flavor enhancers — read labels.
Character: Darker, slightly thicker, with more depth than standard yangjo. Less intensely funky than hansik ganjang but more complex than young yangjo.
Uses: Braising (jjim), glazing (jorim), applications where concentrated soy flavor is needed. The soy used for ganjang gejang (raw crab marinated in soy) is typically jin ganjang or aged yangjo.
How to Identify What You Have
Labels in Korean grocery stores:
- 한식간장 or 조선간장: Hansik/joseon/traditional — for soups
- 양조간장: Yangjo — brewed, general-purpose
- 진간장: Jin — aged/dark, for braising and glazing
- 국간장: Guk ganjang — "soup soy sauce," same as hansik or a blended version for soups
The Practical Rule
If a Korean recipe says 국간장 (guk ganjang) or 조선간장 (joseon ganjang): use hansik ganjang or substitute with regular Japanese soy + a small amount of extra salt.
If it says 간장 (ganjang) without qualifier: use yangjo — the general purpose type.
If it says 진간장: use jin ganjang or any well-aged soy sauce.
The distinction between Korean and Japanese soy sauces reflects the different koji traditions: Japan uses controlled pure-culture Aspergillus; traditional Korean ganjang uses the wild fermentation of meju with environmental organisms. The results taste meaningfully different — the Korean version retains the funkiness of a wild-fermented product that Japanese soy sauce, with its cleaner koji process, does not have.
The full recipes live in the book.
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