Before Korean fried chicken became internationally famous, there was twigim — the everyday fried food of Korean pojangmacha (street food stalls and covered food tents) that has been part of Korean street culture for decades.
Twigim (튀김) simply means "deep-fried things." At pojangmacha stalls, various items are battered and fried to order, then served in a paper cone or on a skewer. The typical stall displays already-fried items that can be reheated, or fries fresh to order.
What Gets Fried
Twigim encompasses a wide range — no single ingredient defines it:
Ojingeo twigim (오징어튀김) — squid: The most iconic. Whole squid scored and cut into rings, or the body left whole and scored. Battered and fried until golden with crispy tentacles. The squid cooks fast — overcooking makes it rubbery.
Goguma twigim (고구마튀김) — sweet potato: Thick slices of sweet potato in a thin batter. The sweetness of the potato works exceptionally well against the neutral batter. Very popular.
Pa twigim (파튀김) — scallion/green onion bundles: Bunches of scallions held together, battered, and fried as a bundle. The green onion softens and sweetens inside the crust.
Saeu twigim (새우튀김) — shrimp: Whole shrimp, tail-on, battered and fried. Similar to Japanese tempura shrimp but with a more substantial batter.
Kimchi twigim (김치튀김) — kimchi: Kimchi battered and fried — the heat mellows the sourness of the kimchi while the batter creates a crunchy exterior. Old kimchi is preferred.
Mandu twigim (만두튀김) — fried dumplings: Korean-style dumplings, battered and deep-fried. More substantial than the other twigim items.
Gim twigim (김튀김) — seaweed: Sheets of dried gim (nori/dried seaweed) sandwiched around fillings and fried — a lighter, crispier item.
The Batter
Twigim batter is simpler than Japanese tempura — a basic thin batter of flour + water (or flour + egg + water), mixed just enough to combine. The goal is a light coating that crisps without overwhelming the ingredient.
Standard ratio:
- 100g all-purpose flour
- 150-170ml cold water
- 1 egg (optional — adds a bit of richness and color)
- Pinch of salt
Mix minimally — lumps are fine. Cold water slows gluten development, keeping the batter light.
Frying temperature: 170-180°C. Most street vendors maintain oil at a constant temperature and fry continuously throughout their operating hours.
The Sauce and Accompaniments
Twigim at pojangmacha is never eaten alone:
Tteokbokki gochujang sauce: The most traditional pairing. Tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) and twigim are almost always sold together at the same stall. The red gochujang sauce from the tteokbokki is used as a dipping sauce for the twigim. The contrast of crispy fried batter and sticky spiced sauce is the defining pojangmacha combination.
Soy dipping sauce: At some stalls, a simple soy sauce + sesame oil dip is offered for more delicate items like the sweet potato or seaweed twigim.
Makgeolli (막걸리): Unfiltered rice wine. The classic pojangmacha drink, served in metal bowls. The slight sourness and effervescence of makgeolli pairs naturally with fried food.
Soju: Also common, especially in the evening.
Pojangmacha Culture
Pojangmacha (포장마차) are the covered street food tents of Korea — distinctive for their plastic tarps, narrow bench seating, and the condensation-fogged warmth they create in winter. They are both a food venue and a social institution.
The pojangmacha tradition is specifically urban Korean — clustered near office buildings, subway exits, markets, and universities. They operate from late afternoon through late night. The food is fast, inexpensive, and designed to be eaten standing or on a low bench.
The combination of tteokbokki + twigim + odeng (fish cake skewers in broth) + makgeolli represents the most complete pojangmacha experience. It is not fine dining. It is one of the most satisfying ways to eat in Korea.
Twigim's role in Korean food culture is specific: it is the category of everyday fried food that exists in public space, made to order, eaten outside or under a tarp, without plates. Korean fried chicken (yangnyeom and soy garlic) became internationally famous. Twigim remained local, uncelebrated outside Korea, and completely essential to the experience of eating in a Korean city.
The full recipes live in the book.
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