Manakish: The Lebanese Flatbread That Is Breakfast, Lunch, and Late-Night Snack All at Once

In Lebanon, the manakish bakery (furn al-manakish) is open by 6 AM and the queue forms early. Families arrive with their own dough and toppings to be baked in the wood-fired oven, or they order from the baker's supply. The flatbreads come out in minutes — baked at high heat on the floor of the oven or on a saj (a domed griddle over an open flame), topped and ready to fold and eat on the way home.

This is morning food, afternoon food, and late-night food. It is the food sold outside schools at dismissal. It is what you eat when you don't have time to cook. It is also what you make carefully on weekend mornings as a proper family breakfast.

The Three Classic Toppings

Za'atar (the original): A mixture of dried za'atar herb (a species related to thyme and oregano, distinct from the spice blend), sesame seeds, sumac, and salt — combined with olive oil to make a paste and spread over the raw dough before baking. The baked manakish emerges fragrant, slightly earthy, slightly tart from the sumac, with a toasted sesame crunch. This is the defining version.

Jibneh (cheese): Akkawi cheese (a white, semi-soft Lebanese cheese) or a mix of Akkawi and mozzarella, grated and spread on the raw dough. The cheese melts into the bread, becoming stretchy and slightly salty. Often finished with dried herbs or nigella seeds.

Lahm bi ajeen / sfiha: Ground lamb or beef seasoned with onion, tomatoes, peppers, and a mixture of warm spices (allspice, cinnamon, black pepper), spread raw on the dough. The meat cooks as the bread bakes. Sometimes called lahm bi ajeen when referring to the Lebanese version, or sfiha when referring to similar preparations across the Levant.

The Dough

Manakish dough is simple — flour, water, yeast, salt, a small amount of oil — and closer to a flatbread than a pizza dough. It is slightly thinner and less chewy than pizza; it should be soft enough to fold in half without cracking (eating manakish folded in half is the standard method).

The dough is traditionally allowed a short proof — about an hour — which gives it some lightness without the complexity of a long fermentation. For home bakers, the dough can be made the night before and refrigerated; a cold, slow fermentation improves flavor.

Rolled thin (3–4mm), the dough should be about 15–20cm in diameter — large enough to fold over.

The Baking Method

Traditional manakish is baked on a saj — a convex metal disc heated over a flame. The flatbread goes topping-side-up on the hot saj, where it bakes quickly from the bottom while the topping cooks in the ambient heat.

At home: a preheated cast iron pan at high heat (with a lid to trap heat for the topping), or a very hot oven (230–250°C) with a preheated baking stone or cast iron baking sheet. The goal is high heat and fast cooking — manakish baked slowly in a moderate oven don't have the right texture.

The Za'atar Blend

Za'atar spice blend (not the fresh herb) consists of:

• Dried za'atar (wild thyme — substitute dried thyme or marjoram outside the Middle East)
• Ground sumac
• Sesame seeds (toasted)
• Salt

This blend is mixed with olive oil to make a spreadable paste. Store-bought za'atar blend is widely available (Lebanese or Syrian brands) and works well. Making it from quality dried herbs is better.

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Recipe: Manakish bi Za'atar (Makes 6)

Dough:

• 350g bread flour (or all-purpose)
• 1 teaspoon instant yeast
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 200ml warm water (approximately)
• 2 tablespoons olive oil

Za'atar topping:

• 4 tablespoons za'atar blend (dried herb mix with sesame and sumac)
• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• Combine to make a paste

Method:

1. Dough: Mix flour, yeast, salt, and sugar. Add olive oil and warm water; knead 8–10 minutes until smooth and slightly tacky. Cover and rest 1 hour until doubled.

2. Divide into 6 equal balls. Roll each into a thin circle, 15–20cm diameter, 3–4mm thick.

3. Spread za'atar paste over each flatbread, leaving a small border.

4. Baking — oven method: Preheat oven to 230°C with a heavy baking sheet inside for 30 minutes. Slide manakish onto the hot sheet (bake 2–3 at a time). Bake 6–8 minutes until edges are golden and za'atar is fragrant and slightly darkened.

5. Baking — stovetop method: Heat a cast iron pan over high heat. Place the manakish topping-side-up. Cover with a lid. Cook 3–4 minutes until the bottom is browned and the za'atar is fragrant.

To serve: Fold in half and eat immediately. Traditionally served with fresh tomatoes, sliced cucumbers, mint leaves, labneh (strained yogurt) on the side.

Cheese version: Replace za'atar paste with 100g grated Akkawi or mozzarella per flatbread. Cover with lid while cooking so cheese melts fully.