Pesto genovese has been made in Liguria for at least two centuries in the form we recognize, though similar preparations of herbs and cheese ground in a mortar appear much earlier. The DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) designation, obtained in 2016, protects not just the name but the basil variety — specifically basilico genovese DOP, grown in the hills around Genova, which is smaller-leafed, more aromatic, and less prone to the anise and mint notes found in Thai and African basil varieties.
In Genova, pesto is eaten primarily with trofie (short, twisted pasta), trenette (a flat pasta similar to linguine, served with green beans and potato), and lasagne al pesto (wide flat pasta layered with pesto and béchamel rather than tomato). The combination of trofie + pesto + green beans + potato is the canonical pesto dish.
Mortar vs Food Processor
Food processor: Cuts the basil with fast-rotating metal blades. The cutting action shears the basil cells, exposing them to air, which oxidizes the chlorophyll. The result is darker green, sometimes slightly bitter, and the texture is more uniform but less complex. The processing heat (from blade friction) can also degrade volatile aromatic compounds.
Mortar and pestle: Crushes and grinds the basil, breaking cell walls gently rather than cutting them. The aromatic oils are expressed rather than exposed to air rapidly. The result is brighter green, more complex in flavor, and more textured (not perfectly smooth).
Practical compromise: If using a food processor, process in short pulses with cold ingredients (some cooks freeze the processor bowl and blade) to minimize heat and oxidation.
The No-Cook Rule
Pesto is a raw sauce. It must never:
- Be cooked in a pan
- Be mixed into pasta over heat
- Be added to a hot dish and then returned to the heat
The heat will brown the basil immediately, turn the sauce olive-grey, and destroy the volatile aromatic compounds. Instead: pasta is drained (leaving it slightly wet), a spoonful of starchy pasta water is added to the bowl, the pesto is added, and everything is tossed off the heat until combined.
The Complete Recipe
Makes: Enough for 4 servings of pasta | Time: 15 minutes
Ingredients
- 50g fresh basil leaves (only leaves; discard stems), washed and completely dried
- 30g pine nuts
- 1 small clove garlic
- 30g Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
- 20g Pecorino Sardo (or additional Parmigiano)
- 80ml Ligurian extra-virgin olive oil (fruity, mild — not peppery Tuscan style)
- 1 pinch coarse salt
Mortar Method (Traditional)
- Pound garlic with salt to a paste in the mortar.
- Add pine nuts; pound to a rough paste.
- Add basil leaves in batches; grind in a circular motion, pressing and rotating. Work quickly.
- Add both cheeses; incorporate by grinding.
- Add olive oil in a thin stream, stirring and grinding until emulsified into a sauce.
Food Processor Method
Pulse garlic, pine nuts, and salt 3–4 times. Add basil; pulse 5–6 times (short bursts only). Add cheeses; pulse 3 times. Add olive oil slowly while processing until combined. Do not over-process.
Serving with Pasta (Trofie al Pesto)
Cook 320g trofie (or linguine) in well-salted water; drain (reserve ½ cup pasta water). Place pesto in a large bowl; add 2–3 tablespoons pasta water; toss pasta with pesto until evenly coated. Serve immediately. Optional: green beans (boiled with the pasta) and sliced boiled potato are the traditional additions in Genova.
Related reading: Focaccia Ligurian Italian Flatbread Guide | Carbonara Roman Pasta Guide | Ossobuco Milanese Guide
The full recipes live in the book.
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