On the Galata Bridge in Istanbul, the simitçi position themselves at the pedestrian rail from 6am. Their carts hold stacks of simit in vertical pyramids, wrapped in clear plastic or piled high on red trays. The commuters crossing the bridge to work buy simit and tear pieces off as they walk. On the ferry crossings of the Bosphorus, the tea boy comes through the cabin at 7am with a tray of glasses and the simitçi walks the deck. Simit is not a snack — it is the first meal of the day for millions of people.
The history of simit in Istanbul is documented from at least the 16th century: the palace accounts of Suleiman the Magnificent mention simit being sold at the Grand Bazaar. The ring shape and sesame coating may have connections to the circular bread traditions found across the Eastern Mediterranean — in Greek koulouri, in Israeli Jerusalem bagel, in Armenian koulouri — all of which share the same sesame-covered ring form and represent overlapping influences from the same regional trade routes.
The Grape Molasses Dip: Why Pekmez
Before coating in sesame seeds, each simit ring is dipped in a mixture of pekmez (grape molasses — a thick, dark syrup produced from reduced grape juice, similar to Italian vincotto or saba) diluted with water.
What the molasses does:
- Color: The concentrated grape sugars caramelize at baking temperatures to produce a deep mahogany-brown crust that water cannot replicate. Plain-water dipped simit come out pale.
- Sweetness: A subtle background sweetness that makes the crust more complex than a plain bread crust.
- Adhesion: The sticky molasses helps the sesame seeds adhere more thoroughly to the entire surface of the ring.
- Gloss: The caramelized molasses gives the finished simit a slight sheen.
Ratio: Typically 1 part pekmez to 2–3 parts water. The dip should be liquid enough to coat but not so thick that it pools.
Substitute: Pomegranate molasses (thinner, more tart) or blackstrap molasses (more bitter, darker) work. Neither produces precisely the same result as grape molasses.
The Dough
Simit dough is simple — flour, water, yeast, salt, and a small amount of oil. The dough should be firm enough to roll into rope-like strands without sticking but not so stiff that it resists shaping. The key is proper gluten development through kneading (10 minutes) and adequate rise time (60–90 minutes).
The Shaping: The Interlocked Ring
- Divide risen dough into equal pieces (~70–80g each)
- Roll each piece into a long rope (40–45cm), keeping even thickness
- Fold the rope in half; twist the two strands around each other several times
- Join the two ends to form a ring; press together to seal
- The resulting shape is a ring with a twisted, interlocked pattern visible on the surface
The twist pattern increases the surface area for sesame adhesion and creates the visual signature.
The Sesame and Baking
After shaping, each ring is:
- Dipped in the diluted pekmez mixture (fully submerged, 5–10 seconds)
- Pressed into a tray of sesame seeds (both sides), patting firmly so seeds adhere
- Placed on a parchment-lined baking sheet
- Baked at 200–220°C for 18–22 minutes until deep mahogany brown
The Complete Recipe
Makes: 8 simit | Time: 2 hours
Dough
- 400g bread flour (strong flour, 12–13% protein)
- 230ml warm water
- 7g instant yeast
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 2 tablespoons neutral oil
Pekmez Dip
- 3 tablespoons grape molasses (pekmez)
- 100ml water
Coating
- 200g sesame seeds (white, unhulled or hulled)
Method
1. Make the dough: Combine all dough ingredients; knead 10 minutes until smooth and elastic. Cover; rise 60–90 minutes until doubled.
2. Prepare: Preheat oven to 210°C. Combine pekmez with water in a wide, shallow dish. Spread sesame seeds in another wide dish.
3. Shape: Divide dough into 8 pieces (~80g each). Roll each into a 40–45cm rope. Fold in half; twist 3–4 times; join ends to form a ring. Press seam firmly.
4. Dip and coat: Dip each ring in pekmez water (10 seconds, fully submerged); lift and let excess drip; press both sides firmly into sesame seeds. Place on parchment-lined baking sheet.
5. Bake: Bake 18–22 minutes until deep golden-brown to mahogany. The surface should be dry and crackled.
Cool: 5 minutes before eating. Best within 2–3 hours of baking.
Serve: With white cheese (beyaz peynir), tomato, cucumber, and black or green olives for a Turkish breakfast spread. Or with ayran (diluted yogurt drink).
Related reading: Turkish Breakfast Kahvaltı Guide | Bagel New York Jewish Bread Ring Guide | Khachapuri Georgian Cheese Bread Guide
The full recipes live in the book.
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