Tacos Al Pastor and Carnitas: Mexico's Two Greatest Pork Preparations and the Lebanese Shawarma Connection Nobody Forgets

Mexican taqueria culture is one of the most studied and imitated street food traditions in the world — and al pastor and carnitas represent two poles of Mexican pork cookery that couldn't be more different in technique yet are often served from the same taqueria counter.

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Al Pastor: The Lebanese-Mexican Connection

Al pastor arrived in Mexico through one of the more specific and well-documented culinary migration stories:

In the early 20th century, large numbers of Lebanese and Syrian immigrants arrived in Mexico, particularly in Puebla and Mexico City. They brought with them the shawarma tradition — marinated lamb on a vertical spit (trompo is the Spanish term, from trompo, a spinning top). In Mexico, lamb was scarce and expensive; pork was abundant. The immigrants adapted the technique to pork, and the marinades adapted to use Mexican dried chilies (guajillo, ancho, pasilla), achiote (annatto), and eventually pineapple on top of the spit (a Mexican addition).

The result is a dish that is visually identical to shawarma (rotating vertical spit, thin-shaved meat into pita-like bread) but tastes nothing like it — the flavor is entirely Mexican: dried chili, achiote orange-red color, cumin, oregano, and the characteristic caramelized pineapple juice that drips from the pineapple placed on top of the trompo.

The Al Pastor Marinade

The achiote (annatto seed paste) is essential — it provides the characteristic deep orange-red color. Available as pasta de achiote at Mexican grocery stores.

Serves: 4–6 tacos Marinade (for 600g pork shoulder):

• 2 tablespoons achiote paste
• 3 dried guajillo chilies, toasted, soaked 20 minutes, seeds removed
• 1 dried ancho chili, toasted, soaked, seeds removed
• 4 cloves garlic
• 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
• 1 teaspoon cumin
• 1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
• ½ teaspoon black pepper
• Salt to taste
• 2 tablespoons oil

Blend to a smooth paste. Coat thinly sliced pork (5mm slices); marinate 4–24 hours.

Home cooking method: Without a trompo, layer the marinated pork slices in a loaf pan or stack on a baking rack, topped with a slice of pineapple. Roast at 220°C for 35–45 minutes until the exterior is charred and caramelized. Slice thin.

Serve: On small corn tortillas with diced white onion, fresh cilantro, sliced pineapple, and salsa verde or tomatillo salsa.

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Carnitas: Confit in Its Own Fat

Carnitas is a completely different technique: pork cooked slowly in its own fat (confit or close to it) until the meat becomes ultra-tender, then the heat is raised to caramelize and crisp the exterior.

Traditionally, large pieces of pork shoulder (and sometimes skin, intestines, and other parts) are submerged or nearly submerged in rendered lard in a large copper cazo (pot) and cooked at low temperature (140–160°C) for several hours. The fat keeps the meat moist as the collagen converts to gelatin. When the fat is removed and the heat raised, the exterior becomes crispy and caramelized.

The flavor: rich, deeply pork-flavored, slightly sweet from the slow Maillard reaction, and crispy at the edges. No marinade per se — the seasoning is simple: orange juice, garlic, salt, sometimes a bay leaf or Mexican cinnamon.

The Home Carnitas Recipe

Serves: 6–8 (carnitas are generous) Time: 3 hours

Ingredients:

• 1.5kg pork shoulder, cut into large chunks (bone-in is fine)
• 1 teaspoon cumin
• 1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
• 6 cloves garlic, smashed
• Juice of 2 oranges (provides sugars that caramelize in the fat)
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 200ml neutral oil or lard (or enough to partially submerge the pork)
• 1 bay leaf

Method:

1. Season: Coat pork pieces with cumin, oregano, and salt.

2. Slow cook: In a wide, heavy pan or Dutch oven, add oil/lard. Add pork pieces, garlic, orange juice, and bay leaf. The fat should come at least halfway up the pork. Cook over medium-low heat, uncovered, at the barest simmer (the fat should bubble gently), 2–2.5 hours until the pork is very tender.

3. Crisp: Increase heat to medium-high. The pork will begin to fry in the remaining fat. Stir and turn every few minutes until the exterior is browned and crispy, 15–20 minutes. The pork will break into smaller chunks as it crisps.

4. Serve: Shred/break the pork into chunks; serve in warm small corn tortillas (taqueria-style tortillas — 10–12cm diameter) with diced white onion, fresh cilantro, salsa, and lime wedges.

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The Corn Tortilla

Neither al pastor nor carnitas works correctly in flour tortillas. Both are eaten in small, double-stacked corn tortillas — the traditional taqueria style where two thin corn tortillas are laid together (the double layer prevents the tortilla from tearing under the weight and moisture of the filling).

Corn tortilla quality: Fresh-pressed corn tortillas (tortillas de maíz) made from masa harina (nixtamalized corn flour, the most common brand being Maseca) are significantly better than packaged pre-made tortillas. Warm on a dry comal (flat griddle) or heavy pan over high heat until slightly charred in spots.

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Related reading: Birria Mexican Beef Stew Guide | Shawarma Middle Eastern Spit-Roasted Meat Guide | Lomo Saltado Peruvian Stir-Fry Guide