Tamales predate the European conquest by at least 4,000 years — archaeological evidence of tamale-like corn preparations dates to at least 2000 BCE, and the Aztec and Maya codices show tamales as ritual food, military ration, and daily sustenance simultaneously. Spanish colonizers ate tamales immediately upon arriving in Mexico and described them in 16th-century documents.
The dish is present across nearly every Mexican state in dozens of regional variations: tamales rojos (red chile pork), tamales verdes (tomatillo and chicken), tamales de rajas (poblano and cheese), tamales dulces (sweet masa with raisins, colored pink or purple), tamales oaxaqueños (wrapped in banana leaf, darker masa from the black bean water), tamales de elote (fresh corn, sweet and soft) — and beyond Mexico across Central America, the Caribbean, and South America in related forms.
The Masa
Tamale masa is different from tortilla masa in one critical way: it must contain beaten fat.
Traditional masa:
- Ground nixtamal (dried corn cooked in lime water, then stone-ground)
- Lard, beaten until very light and fluffy (the fat aerates the masa)
- Broth (for liquid and flavor)
- Salt and baking powder
The float test: A small ball of properly aerated masa should float in a glass of water. If it sinks, the masa needs more beating. This float test is the traditional measure of readiness.
Masa harina shortcut: Masa harina (dehydrated nixtamalized corn flour, Maseca brand being most widely available) can substitute for ground nixtamal — it produces an acceptable tamal but with slightly less complex corn flavor.
The Float Test
- Beat lard with an electric mixer until very light and fluffy, 5–8 minutes
- Add masa harina or ground nixtamal; mix
- Add broth and salt; beat until the dough is soft and spreadable
- Take a small ball; drop into a glass of cold water: if it floats, the masa is ready; if it sinks, beat more fat into the dough
Corn Husk vs Banana Leaf
Dried corn husks (hojas de maíz): Used across central and northern Mexico. They are dried and must be soaked in hot water 30 minutes before use until pliable. They give the tamales a subtle corn-husk aroma.
Banana leaves (hojas de plátano): Used in Oaxaca, Veracruz, the Yucatán, and across Central America. Banana leaves are more flexible and can wrap larger tamales. They are often passed briefly over a flame to increase pliability.
The Complete Recipe
Makes: approximately 24 tamales | Time: 3–4 hours
Red Chile Pork Filling (Relleno de Chile Rojo)
- 800g pork shoulder, cut into large chunks
- 4 ancho chiles, dried and seeds removed
- 2 guajillo chiles, dried and seeds removed
- 4 cloves garlic
- 1 teaspoon cumin
- 1 teaspoon Mexican oregano
- Salt and black pepper
- Water to cover
Boil pork with garlic, salt, and pepper until very tender, 1 hour. Shred. Reserve broth. Toast chiles in a dry pan 30 seconds per side; cover with hot water; soak 15 minutes. Blend with garlic, cumin, and oregano. Fry chile sauce in 1 tablespoon lard 5 minutes; add shredded pork and enough broth to make a moist (not wet) filling. Season strongly.
Tamale Masa
- 500g masa harina
- 500ml warm pork broth (or water + 1 teaspoon salt)
- 200g lard or vegetable shortening
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1 teaspoon salt
Beat lard with baking powder until light and fluffy, 5 minutes. Gradually add masa harina and warm broth alternately, mixing and beating until a soft, slightly sticky dough forms. Float test: a ball should float.
Assembly
- 24 dried corn husks, soaked in hot water 30 minutes, drained
Spread: Place a soaked husk smooth-side up; spread about 3 tablespoons of masa into a thin rectangle (roughly 10×12cm), leaving a 3cm border at the top and sides.
Fill: Place 2 tablespoons of filling in the center of the masa.
Fold: Bring the two long sides of the husk together (the masa edges meet and seal around the filling); fold the pointed bottom end up. Leave the top open.
Steam: Stand tamales upright (open end up) in a steamer basket; cover tightly; steam over boiling water 60–75 minutes. They are done when the masa pulls cleanly away from the husk.
Rest: 10–15 minutes before serving — the masa firms up as it cools slightly.
Related reading: Pozole Mexican Hominy Soup Guide | Mole Negro Oaxacan Guide | Chilaquiles Mexican Breakfast Guide
The full recipes live in the book.
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