"Tofu" covers an enormous range of products. At one end: silken tofu (kinugoshi), so smooth and delicate it trembles with every vibration, used in desserts and delicate Japanese soups. At the other: momen (cotton tofu) pressed dry and marinated, then grilled, which holds together like a steak. In between: fried pockets, deep-fried blocks, freeze-dried pellets, and smoked variations. Using the wrong type is one of the most common cooking failures with tofu.
How Tofu Is Made
All tofu begins the same way: soybeans soaked in water, ground, boiled with more water to produce soy milk, then coagulated with a coagulant that causes the protein to form curds.
The coagulant matters:
- Nigari (magnesium chloride): Traditional Japanese coagulant extracted from seawater. Produces tofu with a slightly sweet, oceanic flavor and a soft, creamy texture. Most traditional Japanese and artisan tofu uses nigari.
- Calcium sulfate (gypsum): Produces a firmer, more neutral tofu. Common in Chinese tofu and many commercial Western products.
- Glucono-delta-lactone (GDL): Produces the softest, most uniform silken tofu. Used in commercial silken tofu production.
After curdling, the curds are:
- Left in the whey (silken tofu) — no pressing, no drainage
- Ladled into cloth-lined molds and pressed (cotton/firm tofu) — drainage removes whey, firming the texture
The pressing time and pressure determine the final texture.
Type 1: Silken Tofu (Kinugoshi-Dofu, 絹ごし豆腐)
Texture: Extremely smooth and custardy, almost gel-like. No graininess. Trembles when handled. Cannot be crumbled — it breaks into soft pieces.
Moisture content: Very high — silken tofu is approximately 90% water.
Flavor: Sweetest and most delicate of the tofu types. The soy flavor is subtle.
Why "kinugoshi": Kinu = silk, goshi = strained. The curd is strained through very fine cloth, producing the characteristically smooth texture.
Applications:
- Miso soup: The standard miso soup tofu. Cut into small cubes and added at the end of cooking — does not require any advance preparation.
- Hiyayakko (cold tofu): Silken tofu served cold with soy sauce, ginger, green onion, and bonito flakes. The delicate texture is the entire point.
- Smoothies and desserts: Silken tofu blends completely smooth, adding protein without any visible tofu texture. Used in Japanese desserts, vegan cheesecakes, chocolate mousse.
- Chawanmushi substitute: Silken tofu can be used as a shortcut in applications that would normally require egg custard preparation.
Do not: Stir-fry silken tofu (it disintegrates), marinate and grill it (it falls apart), or substitute it for firm tofu in any application that requires handling.
Type 2: Cotton/Regular Tofu (Momen-Dofu, 木綿豆腐)
Texture: Noticeably firmer than silken, with a slightly rough, porous surface (the imprint of the cotton cloth used in pressing is often visible). Can be handled, cut, and cubed without falling apart.
Moisture content: Lower than silken — approximately 85-88% water.
Flavor: Slightly stronger soy flavor than silken, with a more substantial mouthfeel.
Applications:
- Agedashi tofu: Dusted in potato starch and deep-fried — the firm texture holds up to frying. Silken tofu can also be used for a more delicate result.
- Miso soup (firmer version): When you want tofu cubes that hold their shape in soup.
- Stir-fry (with care): Can be stir-fried but requires gentle handling.
- Pan-fried tofu: Cut into slabs, pan-fried in oil until golden on both sides. The exterior crisps while the interior remains custard-like.
- Mapo dofu: The traditional Chinese preparation (and Korean mapo dubu) uses regular/soft tofu rather than extra firm.
Type 3: Firm Tofu
Texture: Pressed further than cotton tofu. Can be sliced, marinated, and handled with relative confidence. Holds a cube shape.
Moisture content: Approximately 80-85% water.
Applications:
- Korean cooking (sundubu vs. regular tofu in stews): Firm tofu holds in stews like doenjang jjigae.
- Mandu fillings: Pressed firm tofu is the standard mandu/dumpling filling tofu — must be thoroughly dried first.
- General cooking: When you want tofu that holds its shape in a dish.
Type 4: Extra Firm Tofu
Texture: Very dense, little give when pressed. Can be cubed and stir-fried aggressively, marinated for hours, and grilled without falling apart.
Moisture content: Approximately 75-80% water.
Applications:
- Stir-fry: The default stir-fry tofu. Holds cubes even with vigorous tossing in a hot wok.
- Korean dubu jorim (braised spicy tofu): Extra firm tofu simmered in a spicy soy and gochugaru sauce. The texture holds.
- Tofu steaks: Sliced thick and pan-seared or grilled — holds together like a protein slab.
- Scrambled "egg" substitute: Crumbles into an egg-like texture in a pan with turmeric for color.
Pressing technique: Even extra firm tofu benefits from pressing before use. Place on a towel-lined surface, top with another towel, and weight for 20-30 minutes. This removes additional moisture, improving browning.
Type 5: Aburaage (薄揚げ) — Thin Fried Tofu Pouches
Aburaage is cotton tofu sliced thinly and deep-fried twice — first at low temperature (160°C) to cook through, then at higher temperature (200°C) to crisp the exterior. The result is a pouch-like fried skin with a hollow interior.
Texture: Chewy, slightly spongy, with a golden exterior. Absorbs liquid readily.
Applications:
- Miso soup: Cut into strips, aburaage in miso soup with daikon is a classic combination. The fried tofu absorbs the dashi.
- Inari sushi: Aburaage pouches are simmered in sweetened dashi until soft, then stuffed with sushi rice — this is inari sushi.
- Kitsune udon/soba: Kitsune ("fox") noodles feature an aburaage pouch, simmered sweet and placed on top of udon. The word kitsune comes from the fox's legendary fondness for aburaage in Japanese folklore.
Preparing aburaage: Before using in most applications, pour boiling water over aburaage to remove excess oil from frying, then squeeze dry.
Type 6: Atsuage (厚揚げ) — Thick Fried Tofu
Atsuage is thick-cut cotton tofu deep-fried until the exterior is golden and the interior remains relatively soft. Unlike aburaage (which is fully hollow), atsuage has a soft tofu interior surrounded by fried skin.
Texture: Crispy-chewy exterior, soft but firm tofu interior.
Applications:
- Agedashi-like preparations: Atsuage served with dashi broth and grated daikon.
- Nimono: Simmered in dashi, soy, and mirin — the interior absorbs the broth beautifully.
- Grilled: Atsuage can be halved and grilled directly, served with ponzu or miso tare.
Type 7: Koyatofu / Kori-Dofu (高野豆腐) — Freeze-Dried Tofu
Traditional Japanese preservation technique: cotton tofu left outdoors in winter to freeze, then thaw, then freeze again repeatedly over several days. The freeze-thaw cycles create a sponge-like structure as ice crystals expand and contract within the tofu.
Texture: Completely dry when purchased. Rehydrates in warm water to a spongy, chewy texture unlike any other tofu type. The texture is almost like a very fine sponge cake.
Flavor: More concentrated, slightly different from fresh tofu. Absorbs cooking liquid very readily once rehydrated.
Applications:
- Nimono: The primary use — koyatofu simmered in dashi, soy, and mirin absorbs the broth into every pore.
- Traditional Japanese cooking: The ability to store indefinitely without refrigeration made koyatofu important in pre-refrigeration Japan.
Quick Reference
| Type | Texture | Best Use | |------|---------|----------| | Silken | Custard-smooth | Miso soup, cold tofu, desserts | | Cotton/Regular | Slightly firm, porous | Agedashi, pan-frying, stews | | Firm | Holds shape | Korean stews, mandu filling | | Extra Firm | Dense, sturdy | Stir-fry, grilling, braising | | Aburaage | Fried pouch | Miso soup, inari sushi, kitsune | | Atsuage | Fried block | Nimono, grilling | | Koyatofu | Spongy (rehydrated) | Simmered dishes |
The single most common tofu mistake: using silken tofu where firm tofu is needed (it dissolves in a stir-fry) or using extra firm tofu where silken is needed (it has none of the custard quality that makes hiyayakko or miso soup tofu appealing). Choose by texture requirement, not by what's available.
Related reading: Japanese Cooking Methods Guide | Japanese Vegetarian Cooking Guide | What Is Miso?
The full recipes live in the book.
Get Tokyo Meets Tuscany on AmazonPaperback $24.99 · Hardcover $34.99 · eBook $9.99