Yakitori is one of Japan's most complete pub foods — chicken pieces threaded on bamboo skewers, grilled over high heat, available at izakayas, specialist yakitori-ya shops, and street stalls. The technique is minimal; the results, when done correctly, are extraordinary.
Ingredients
The chicken:
- 600g boneless chicken thighs, skin-on
- 6-8 Japanese long onions (naganegi) or thick scallions, cut into 3cm pieces
Tare sauce (sweet soy glaze — for half the skewers):
- 4 tbsp soy sauce
- 3 tbsp mirin
- 2 tbsp sake
- 1 tbsp sugar
Shio seasoning (salt — for the other half):
- 1 tsp flaky salt or fine sea salt
- 1/4 tsp white pepper
- Lemon or yuzu juice at finish
Equipment:
- 12-16 bamboo skewers (soak in water 30 min before use)
- Grill pan, cast iron grill, or outdoor grill
Method
1. Make the tare: Combine soy sauce, mirin, sake, and sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring until sugar dissolves. Simmer 5-7 minutes until slightly thickened. Remove from heat. The tare should coat a spoon.
2. Prepare the chicken: Cut chicken thighs into 3-4cm pieces — irregular is fine. Thread onto soaked bamboo skewers, alternating chicken and green onion pieces (3 pieces chicken + 2 pieces scallion per skewer). Don't pack too tightly — leave slight space for heat.
3. Season shio skewers: For half the skewers, season lightly with salt and white pepper just before grilling.
4. Grill: Heat a grill pan or cast iron over medium-high heat until very hot. Brush with a small amount of neutral oil.
Place skewers on the grill. Don't move for 2-3 minutes until the first side caramelizes and releases easily.
Flip. Cook 2 minutes.
For tare skewers: Brush with tare sauce. Grill 1 more minute. Brush again. Grill 30 seconds. The tare should be sticky and slightly caramelized with a few darker spots.
For shio skewers: Cook without adding sauce until cooked through and slightly charred. Squeeze lemon or yuzu over immediately after removing from grill.
5. Rest briefly: Let skewers rest 1-2 minutes before serving — the interior continues cooking and the juices redistribute.
Serving
Serve hot, immediately. Eat directly from the skewer. Accompany with cold Sapporo or Asahi beer. The tare and shio versions should both appear — the contrast is part of the experience.
Notes
- Skin-on thigh is essential for proper yakitori. The fat in the skin bastes the meat and creates the char. Breast or skinless thigh produces dry, less flavorful skewers.
- The charred spots on tare skewers are not burnt — the sugar in the tare caramelizes at high heat. This char is the flavor. Do not remove it.
- Specialty cuts: True yakitori-ya restaurants offer liver (rebā), heart (hāto), skin (kawa), cartilage (nankotsu), and gizzard (sunagimo). Each is a distinct experience. Kawa (skin only) is the most underrated.