Locro is pre-Columbian food that survived the colonial era and emerged as a national symbol. The Andean peoples — Quechua, Aymara, and others — had been cooking corn and squash stews together for thousands of years before the Spanish arrived. The Spanish added pork, chorizo, and pork skin to the indigenous corn-and-squash base; the result was locro as it exists today: a deeply syncretic dish that carries both indigenous and colonial history in every bowl.
The dish's elevation to national symbol came through the 19th century independence movements. The patricias of the upper classes, cooking large quantities for revolutionary gatherings on May 25, 1810 (the day of the Revolución de Mayo against Spanish colonial rule), served locro because it could feed many people cheaply from a single large pot. The association between locro and Argentine national identity has been maintained ever since: on the national holidays of May 25 and July 9, restaurants, civic organizations, and households across Argentina make locro.
The Corn: Maíz Blanco (Pozole Corn)
The corn is the identifying ingredient. Maíz blanco pelado — dried white corn that has been treated with lime (nixtamalization) or peeled to remove the hull, producing the large, white, puffy kernels known in Mexico as hominy or pozole corn. These kernels must be soaked overnight (12 hours minimum) before cooking.
Why this specific corn: Regular dried corn kernels do not break down and soften properly over four hours; white pozole corn is treated to be more porous and cookable. As it cooks for four hours in the stew, the corn kernels split and partially dissolve, contributing starch to thicken the broth. This partial dissolution is essential — it is what creates locro's characteristic thick, porridge-like consistency.
Available as: Dried hominy corn (sold at Latin grocery stores), canned hominy (drain and add in the last hour — reduces cooking time significantly), or mote (South American processed corn) at specialty stores.
The Squash: Zapallo
Zapallo is a South American pumpkin/squash variety — large, with dense, sweet orange flesh. Butternut squash, kabocha, or any dense-fleshed orange squash is a suitable substitute. The squash cooks down and dissolves into the stew, contributing sweetness, color, and body. A generous amount (500g+) is necessary.
The Meats
The multi-meat combination is traditional:
- Pork rib (costilla de cerdo) — bone-in; provides collagen and fat
- Chorizo criollo — Argentine fresh pork sausage (not smoked; seasoned with cumin and paprika); sliced
- Beef (osobuco, shank, or brisket) — optional but common in some regions
- Panceta (pork belly) — cubed
- Pork skin (cuero de cerdo) — cleaned and cut into strips; gelatinous; thickens the stew through collagen; traditional but optional
The Sofrito de Grasa: The Finish
This separate finishing sauce is not optional:
- Render pork fat (grasa de cerdo) or lard in a small pan over medium heat
- Add sweet paprika (pimentón dulce) and hot chili (ají molido) in roughly equal proportions
- Fry 30 seconds until fragrant
- Remove from heat
This red, oil-based sauce is spooned or drizzled over each bowl immediately before serving. It adds color, heat, and the smoky paprika note that distinguishes locro from plain corn-and-squash stew.
The Four-Hour Commitment
There is no shortcut to properly cooked locro:
Hour 1: The corn and soaked beans are boiling; the meats have been added; the base is coming together. Hour 2: The corn is softening; the squash is added; the stew begins to thicken. Hour 3: The corn is splitting and partially dissolving; the squash has nearly dissolved; the meats are very tender. Hour 4: The final adjustment — consistency, seasoning, stirring to prevent sticking.
A pressure cooker reduces the time significantly (45–60 minutes) but the flavor integration of four-hour stovetop cooking is different.
The Complete Recipe
Serves: 8 | Time: 4+ hours (plus overnight corn soak)
Ingredients
- 400g dried white pozole corn (maíz blanco), soaked overnight; OR 2 cans hominy, drained (add in last hour)
- 300g dried white beans (alubias), soaked overnight; OR 1 can white beans, drained
- 500g zapallo or butternut squash, peeled and cubed
- 300g pork ribs (bone-in)
- 200g panceta (pork belly), cubed
- 250g chorizo criollo, sliced into rounds
- 200g pork skin (optional), cleaned and cut into 3cm strips
- 1 large onion, diced
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 teaspoon cumin
- 1 teaspoon sweet paprika
- Salt and black pepper
- Water (3+ liters)
Sofrito de Grasa:
- 3 tablespoons lard or pork fat
- 1 tablespoon sweet paprika
- 1 teaspoon hot chili (ají molido)
Method
1. Start the corn: Drain soaked corn; cover with fresh water (at least 3 liters); bring to a boil; simmer 1 hour. Add soaked (drained) beans after the first hour.
2. Add meats: Add pork ribs, panceta, chorizo, and pork skin. Continue simmering.
3. Hour 2 — add squash and aromatics: Add squash, onion, garlic, cumin, and paprika. Stir. The squash should begin dissolving after 30–40 minutes.
4. Hours 3–4 — low and slow: Maintain a slow simmer (not a full boil); stir every 20–30 minutes to prevent sticking. If too thick, add boiling water; if too thin, increase heat briefly. In the last 30 minutes, season generously with salt and pepper.
5. Sofrito: In a small pan, heat lard over medium; add paprika and chili; fry 30 seconds. Remove from heat.
Serve: In deep bowls, drizzled with sofrito. With crusty bread.
Related reading: Sancocho Latin American Stew Guide | Ajiaco Colombian Potato Chicken Soup Guide | Posole Mexican Corn Soup Guide
The full recipes live in the book.
Get Tokyo Meets Tuscany on AmazonPaperback $24.99 · Hardcover $34.99 · eBook $9.99